On Missing France

With less than a month left on my visa, and potentially less than two weeks left in France (all subject to whether or not the country opens up post confinement - fingers crossed), it feels like a good time to write a post about all the things I’ll miss about France as I put my graduation goggles on. I wrote a post about things I miss about America a few months ago, and I do miss those things even more now as I get close to the end. But I also realize that I’m going to miss so much more about being in France once I’m back in America. This country is truly one-of-a-kind, and holds a very special place in my heart (if that wasn’t yet clear). But I also remember that France isn’t going anywhere, and while things change, so much of its character and its charm will persist forever.

Fresh bread: and croissants, cakes, pastries, anything of the like that would fall under the category of “pâtisserie/boulangerie.” I am spoiled by fresh bread here. I am so used to getting a new baguette every other day (but also making it a point to try lots of different kinds of breads - charcoal, olive oil and sea salt, whole grain, you name it). I will absolutely miss having bread be an integral part of every meal, whether it’s as a tartine for breakfast, a sandwich at lunch, or just served alongside dinner (and with the obligatory cheese course). I also feel spoiled in Avignon that there are so many lovely bakeries trying to keep tradition while also trying new things - some of my favorites are Bella Ciao, La Magie des Pains, and Maison Violette. Don’t get me wrong though, I will also miss the ease with which I can get a warm fresh baguette and have a bite off the end while walking home with it - there’s nothing like it and there’s nothing that is more typically French. As much as I’ll miss the bread, I will also miss the pastries and sweets that are as beautiful as they are delicious. There’s something about being able to get a fresh tarte aux framboises whenever you want (except maybe Monday) that is delightful.
Public transportation: even though I haven’t been taking it of late due to confinement, I will miss the ease of train travel and public transportation here. Despite the fact that the TGV now has its own Ryanair style budget option which is awful, I love French trains. Fast, slow, regional, cross-country - they are clean, nice, fairly on time and reliable except when striking, and affordable (especially if you’re under 26!). I also am grateful that it is possible to take the bus to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from Avignon in an affordable manner - this just would not be possible in America. Not only does Avignon have a bike share program, it also has a tram line and an extensive bus line. For being a city of less than 100,000 inhabitants, this is fairly impressive, but par for the course with Europe. For what it’s worth, though, the public transportation in Geneva was a touch better - but more expensive. Even though I didn’t get to take advantage of the trains as much as I would have liked, the week Margaret and I went to Paris we took the TGV and it was as wonderful as I remember. Train travel is just better.
Walking: while walking in big cities in America is definitely a thing, I do feel like there’s a greater emphasis on walking in France. This could be in part due to Avignon being a very walkable city, but it goes beyond that. The amount of walks I’ve gone for with friends (yes I know this is partly because of COVID), or to se balader with the random French connections I’ve made, or even seeing so many French people out and about walking in the middle of a weekday, shows me it’s something cherished and valued here. While there is something to be said about the convenience of having a car, sometimes it’s nice to walk 25 minutes to a different bakery to try something new, or go for a post-lunch walk to digest and relax. I love walking, whether it’s in a big city or hiking in nature. Wherever the next few years take me, walking is definitely something I want to incorporate regularly.
Slowness: today, on week three of vacation due to confinement, Jack asked me if I was bored. The truth is, while this is due in part to COVID forcing us to slow down and be better at doing less things, the French way of life also encourages slowness. It encourages walking around and exploring a city, sitting to drink your coffee instead of having it on the go, eating at restaurants or at home instead of in your car (no actually, it’s illegal in France to eat and drive), spending time picking out your groceries and cooking them, and just enjoying life at a slower pace (even if this also means with paperwork and bureaucracy, seeing as it took four weeks for me to get a debit card). I will miss that this is not just accepted, but encouraged. In the US, we are so focused on go-go-go, and I see signs that this could come back once we return to a new normal. France very much emphasizes taking time to slow down, through mandatory vacations (usually at least five weeks), stores closing for lunch breaks, restaurants letting you book your table for an entire night, and countless other examples. Here, I don’t feel unproductive if all I’ve done is go to the grocery, cook, and read. There’s so much less societal pressure to accomplish so much.
Patrimonie: there is no debate here, France has an undeniably incredible patrimonie (heritage). The old buildings, winding cobblestone streets, and Roman ruins all over Provence are something I am going to miss. America doesn’t have the same feeling of history in a lot of ways, except in historical quarters in the Northeast to a degree. We also don’t do as good a job of preserving old things. There are so many more modern buildings in New York City than one could imagine, but here in France there is such an emphasis it feels on restoring old things, or building new things to resemble the old. Even Paris, the biggest city, still retains so much old charm (perhaps because the modern business district is far outside the city). I will miss feeling like I could be in the 1700s as I walk around Avignon, or seeing the water wheels of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue that were built in the 19th century slowly turn. Yes, my apartment leans heavily and it can be noticeable if you spill water or are doing yoga, but that’s part of the charm - it was built on the ancient city walls! I will definitely miss living in what feels like a piece of history.
Cheap and fresh produce: I’ve talked about this before when I’ve talked about food, but now as I get closer to going back home I realize how much I’m going to miss the access to produce. This is definitely unique to Provence, as well. It’s one of the most fertile regions of France and has some of the best produce - strawberries from Carpentras, melons from Cavaillon, goat’s cheese, fresh vegetables, purple garlic, and herbes de Provence in plentiful amounts. It is not just that it is so fresh (which is also evidenced by the fact that when you buy it, you have to cook it within a few days or you’ve lost it). It’s that it’s affordable too. A lot is organic, locally grown, and just as cheap if not cheaper than going to the big grocery store. Especially when I buy from the market in L’Isle, I know the person selling me the spinach is the same one who gathered it that morning (usually because they proudly tell me). I know it’s possible to get fresh produce in America, but it’s often not as affordable. And even so, it still doesn’t taste as fresh and vibrant as it does here.
Markets: on the topic of food, the markets are of course going to be a huge thing I miss. Especially because COVID has meant that restaurants have been closed since October, the markets have been a way for me to experience such a defining aspect of culture in Provence while also grabbing groceries and trying new things. When I found out L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue was famous for its weekly Sunday market, I was ecstatic - I loved going to the farmer’s markets in Boston. But the one in L’Isle is something else. And Les Halles in Avignon has become a comforting presence to me - during the first confinement I went every other day just to be around groups of people and feel life still ticking. Everything is fresh, local, and affordable. And while some of the vendors are curmudgeonly French people, many are often very kind and willing to indulge me in recipe ideas and ways to cook produce I’ve never seen before (potimarron and round courgette come to mind). I will miss endless samples of cheeses and charcuterie, the neverending supply of tapenades, the butchers who always give you a little more than what you asked for (but it’s fine!), and the energy of it all, whether indoor or outdoor.
French: I mean, of course. But especially now, after almost seven months, I’ve gotten to a point where I can walk by someone speaking in French and understand their conversation in passing. I’ve gotten to a point where I don’t need to plan out what I’m going to say when ordering food or getting groceries. I’ve gotten to a point where I dream in French, which is no doubt helped by the fact that I often hear it all day. I will miss hearing it, speaking it, thinking it, and being surrounded by it. I will definitely force myself to incorporate it into my daily life once I’m back in America.
Eco-friendliness: France still has a long way to go to protect the planet, though definitely not as long as America. Here, it’s much easier to incorporate simple ecofriendly practices into your life. For example, when you get takeway, they don’t automatically include napkins and cutlery. This cuts down on a ton of waste, which is really nice. And it’s much easier to buy individual fruits and vegetables or things in bulk here, which helps reduce food waste. There’s also a huge emphasis on just using less energy, whether that means not having dryers, only heating the used parts of schools (aka the hallways are freezing), and handwashing as many dishes as possible, it’s these small actions that if we all take as a collective whole can make a huge difference. Everyone brings their own bag here, and people grocery shop every few days so they only get what they need when they need it. I’ve also found that there’s a lot more glass packaging here, which is not only great for purposes of reusing it yourself (we have about 20 yogurt jars that are now on their second life as wine glasses), but also for recycling. These little practices will make a huge difference in the long run, and I hope I’ve incorporated them as habits into my daily life even when I’m not in France.
Politeness: while the French have a reputation for being rude to Americans, I think to each other they’re pretty polite (and since I have worked so hard to NOT emulate my American-ness, they can be polite to me too!). For example, the notion to say bonjour and au revoir when entering/leaving a store or even when asking a question to a sales person (don’t even try to just say “excuse me, where are the shallots?”). But on top of that, there’s definitely a culture of mind your own business here that’s kind of nice. Americans can be so nosy, and famously oversharing, which I do appreciate, but here it’s kind of nice sometimes that people don’t ask questions. People respect your business, and respect your privacy. I think this politeness also comes from the fact that people aren’t rushing you - because no one’s in a hurry, the person ringing up your groceries is happy to chat, and the person you’re buying cheese from would love to have you sample each thing. It’s a small thing to miss, but I know I’m going to have to adjust to NOT saying hello when I enter a grocery store in America.
Fashion: I’ve already talked a lot about fashion, so it makes sense that it’s something I’d miss. I will definitely miss the shopping experience, but what I think I’ll miss the most is seeing how trendy people are just walking down the street. Athleisure is NOT a thing here as is likely well known, so even when people are out grabbing groceries, they look good as hell. The trends always are here before they go to the US, so I will miss being able to be one step ahead of the game. And I will miss just by virtue of being surrounded by it, dressing better myself. When everyone around you is wearing cool blazers and trendy jeans, you don’t want to walk out in sweatpants (though I do sometimes if it’s early). It’s so nice to feel like you’re watching a fashion show on your daily runs.

There’s a lot more I’ll miss about France that’s intangible, and probably a lot more that I’ll remember I miss once I’m no longer here. But like I said before: France will always be here, and so will the things that make it special.